Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Hidden Gems of Rural Rajasthan

Bayana – A curious mixture of Hindu and Muslim relics and ruins characteristics Bayana. The place rose to prominence in the Mughal era, situated as it is near the two Mughal capitals of Agra and Delhi. Ancient temples sit side-by-side with medieval Muslim architecture. An ancient fort, Bijaigarh, crowns Bayana. The fort contains several temples and a pillar that indicates that Bayana used to belong to the kingdom of Samudragupta, Babur called it India’s most formidable fort.

Bairat – Bairat, earlier known as Viratnagar, has been an important town from ancient times, though today it is among the quieter parts of Jaipur district. Remains of a Budhhist monastery, Asokan inscriptions, and a beautiful Jain temple speak of antiquity in this deserted place. The Pandavas of the Mahabharata were fabled to have spent a year of their exile in Viratnagar. Bairat also houses the ruins of two Buddhist monasteries built between 3rd and 1stt century AD. Inscriptions on the ruins indicate that the monasteries were built by King Ashoka.

Baghera – Baghera is famous for its ruined temples. The remains of a Vishnu temple, uncovered through excavations, are part of the Varaha Avatar temple and depict Vishnu in the form of a boar. Excavations have also uncovered Jain images that indicate the erstwhile presence of a Jain temple. A little farther away a torana and the remnants of several ancient residences have also been excavated.

Sita Mata – Spread across the Aravalli and Vindhy ranges, the Sita Mata wildlife sanctuary is a forest of bamboo and deciduous vegetation. Three rivers flow through the forest and sustain the wildlife that inhabits this area. Tree varieties grow in abundance: teak, salar, tendu, amla, bamboo and bel are the most common. Valuable teak trees that can be used for building grow in especial abundance. Several varieties of deer including the chousingha, wild boars, pangolin and leopards make the sanctuary their home. Hyenas, jackals, foxes, jungle cats, porcupines, spotted deer, wild bears, four-horned antelopes and nilgais, revered by the Bishnoi tribe also spotted in Sita Mata. The sanctuary is also rich with bird life. The flying squirrel, however, is the most exciting animal found here. These squirrels glide from tree to tree, usually after sunset.

Jalore – Jalore lies on the left bank of the Sukri River. As a river town, it flourished in the middle of the 8th century and was ruled by Pratihar kings. It boasts of many temples, as well as the mandatory fort. Two great poetic works – the kuvalayamala and the Kanhad Dev Praband – were composed in Jalore. Today Jalore is known for the fort, which was built in the 10th century. It is the simplest of forts without much embellishment. A work of elegance, it speaks of strength. The fort is unusually spacious. It houses the mosque of the great saint Malik Singh.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Sightseeing Around Bikaner

Gajner – The place is located 32 km south west to Bikaner. This is the private hunting preserve of the royal family of Bikaner, Gajner was developed under Maharajas Ganga Singh into the finest sandgrouse shooting reserve in the country. The palace, built to front an artificial lake, attracted sufficient wintering birds from distant Siberia, as well as a variety of deer. Gajner Palace is perfect for a quiet holiday in truly regal surroundings. Photographic shoots are not only permitted but also encouraged.

Deshnoke – The place is located 30 km south of Bikaner. The surprise of this place is a temple, which is entirely dedicated to rats. The Karni Mata Temple at Deshnoke is known by the sobriquet of ‘Temple of Rats’. Since it was Karni Mata who had bestowed her blessings on Rao Bika, the royal family has always held the saint goddess in especially high regard. She is said to protect the city even today against everything from war to disease.

Kolayat - The place is located 52 km south west from Bikaner. This is where the Kolayat Fair is held, the sacred site where sage Kapil Muni is supposed to have meditated centuries ago. The fair lasts for 10 days in November. The Kolayat Lake has 52 ghats, shaded by banayan trees.

Kalibangan – The place is located is 205 km north east of Bikaner. This is an early settlement thought to have been part of the Indus Valley Civilization. Excavations yielded evidence that town-planning measures were followed here. Remains dating to both the Harappan and pre-Harappan periods have been found at Kalibangan. An archaeological museum neat the site houses the remnants found here, such as pottery, bricks, bangles and terracotta figures. Kalibangan can be reached from Bikaner by taxi.

Friday, June 5, 2009

Things To Do And See In Mount Abu



According to a legend, gods scraped from the ground using their nails to make Nakki Lake around which Mount Abu is located. The lake is also the centre for most activities in Abu, and boating on the lake is a must-do activity.

Viewpoints – For sightseeing, or trekking head towards Toad Rock ( South West of the Raghuathji Temple near the lake) or Sunset Point, the latter for its panoramic views. There is also an amusement park for children at Sunset Point, ideal for a family outing. Also, you can walk around the wild at Mount Abu Wildlife Sanctuary that spread over 288 sq km. the park is another summer draw, for during the hot months of March and April. It is also birdwatcher’s paradise, with more common among them is the grey jungle fowl; leopard, chinkara, sloth bear, wild boar and hundreds of langurs are also seen here.

Delwara Jain Temples – Delwara Jain Temples is located in Village called Delwara that houses a complex of five Jain Temples. From outside temple complex is nothing extraordinary looking but inside the whole gamut of complex changes dramatically. Of the five temples here, two of the earliest temples, Vimal Vashi and Luna Vasahi have glorious marble work.

The temples are marvels of sculpture, not architecture. Their plan – of a courtyard encompassing a circular mandap hall and a portico, all supported by pillars, leading to a sanctum – is shared by many Jain and Hindu temples of the Solanki era in western India. But it is the breathtaking sculpture and carving of the pillars, arches, doorways, and even the ceiling that give a unique feel to these temples. The exactly date-able monuments in Mount Abu are the Delwara Temples, among which the two oldest were built in 1031 and 1230. The Achalgarh Fortress that looms over the landscape was built in the 15th century.

Adhardevi Temple – An atmospheric natural cave structure with a very low and narrow entrance, the temple is crowded during Navratra time. Adhardevi, also called Arbuda Devi, is seen as a form of Durga, and was the family goddess of the Parmar kings. It’s a climb of some 350 steps to the goddess.

Shopping – Rajasthani handicrafts are ubiquitous in the shops that fringe Nakki Lake. In particular, look out for marble statuary and Kota cotton saris. The shops also have tribal silver jewellery from the region. Other than these shops, pay a visit to Rajasthani at Chacha Chowk.

Saturday, May 23, 2009

History Mandawa Haveli in Shekhawati


The painted Walls of Shekhawati by Aman Nath and Francis Wacziarg inadvertently gave birth to a tourism fantasy coming true. Old havelis (mansions) were turned into hotels in Rajasthan. Dominique Lapierre having reaped in the success of his book Freedom at Midnight, wanted to treat his French publisher and co-writer to a unique holiday. Having learnt of the Shekhawati region from Aman’s book, he requested Randhir Singh Mandawa for a private lunch at his ancestral haveli. Randhir, keeping true to Rajput hospitality, made it special for them. There was the regal paraphernalia of traditional welcome by a procession of chariots, camel carts, horses, ‘dhap’ music and dance.

The guest went back home and wrote about the novel experience they had had. Nouvelle Frontiers, one of the biggest tour operators in France at that point, picked up the idea and a new trend was born. Randhir asked his grandparents for their blessings. They were, according to him, apprehensive about the fact that one from the family will ever want to go back to Mandawa. This idea came as godsend for them and they started with six rooms being let out at the Mandawa Haveli. It has grown to 85 rooms now and the haveli still maintains its charm. Every bit of the original interiors was used; they even kept the family colours – red and orange, playing with them their binding factors.

Apart from the mystical magic and romance, which pulsates through Mandawa, the place also speaks of a bygone era in all its quaintness. Driving into Mandawa is a typical experience, which runs common to any place in the Shekhawati region. It’s like being in Venice without the canals. The streets are in themselves works of art; you rub shoulders with history and despite the rude intrusion of urbanity, the streets have a feel that reconfirms continuity of old tradition – it is refreshing and invigorating.

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Social Work Research Centre at Tilonia Rajasthan


Tilonia, a sleepy village in Ajmer district is not so overt affectionate destination but due to the proximity to Pushkar and Kishangarh, travelers sometimes give an ignored look to it. However, the people who know about the Social Work Research Centre at Tilonia are able to grasp the interest of the place. More than three decades ago a Doon School and St. Stephen’s College alumni, Sanjit ‘Bunker’ Roy was engrossed in a mission – to educate and empower rural people. In this stark village he started a small organization for rural people and now it is inflated to a big social research center, which captures even International eyeballs.

The Social Work Research Center started in 1972 and in 34 years, a lot happened in that sleepy village. Bhanwar Jat, an illiterate farmer from Tilonia, was allocated the responsibility of constructing the 30,000 sq ft campus in which no wood or cement was to be used; the raw material would be confined to lime, sand, chipped stone and plywood. Another villager named Rafiq who was a traditional blacksmith given the responsibility to fabricated the doors and windows and later using Buckminister Fuller’s design installed over 150 geodesic domes out of scrap metal, to be used as schools, dispensaries, telephone booths, community centers, and meeting places for village women. Immense hard work and perseverance brought a huge haul of awards for Bunker Roy and when a journalist gave Social Work Research Center the name of Barefoot College, the epithet stuck.

While going on the Delhi-Jaipur road and close to Kishangarh, one can find a small signboard that reads: Tilonia Crafts Shop. This craft shop is treasure house of exquisite handicrafts made by the village people. After driving roughly eight kilometres on the dirt road, one can reach Barefoot College, the Craft Shop,a domed Internet dhaba and a milk booth. In an urban world, shopping necessarily entails parking hassles, but in Tilonia you can happily park under the shade of a tree and shop till you drop dead. There’s a bedspread with an applique of a tree motif, funny figurines dance together as an appliqué on a cushion cover, and there are block-print kurtas, paper bags – some lined with zari, others with plaited handles, belled wall hangings and several others. Tilonia, however, is best known for its camel leather handicraft – purses, wallets, jootis, belts, wooden chairs with embroidered backs, small-legged stools and the most famous of all – a three legged collapsible wooden stool with a triangular embroidered seat. The camel leather products are machine embroidered using chain stitch to make flower motifs, adding a generous contrast to the beige of the camel skin.

FACT FILE

Barefoot College Crafts: Social Work Research Centre, Tilonia via Madanganj, District Ajmer, Rajasthan

Website: Barefoot College


Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Heritage Hotels in Rajasthan



Devi Garh (Delwara) - The fort was built probably in the mid 18th century by the descendants of a certain Sajja Singh, who was honoured the principality of Delwara by Rana Pratap. Most of the forts was a series of black, dark interconnected chambers infested with bats and birds when it first acquired by Poddars in 1990. It took almost 6 years to restore the whole fort and ultimately 200 chambers fort converted into 39 luxurious suites. Each suite is specially designed with airy patio or veranda and rooms, sitting area decorated with marble and semi-precious stones. Devi Garh is an excellent example of luxury comfort and ancient heritage. The façade remain traditional but the rooms are ultramodern.
Website – www.deviresorts.com


Alsisar Haveli (Jaipur) – The haveli is not too old traditionally but completely renovated in 1982, blends the Rajput and Mughal architectural styles. It is no more a medieval fort but it still oozes the reflection of royal heritage through antique furniture. Surprisingly, the bustling city of Jaipur right outside its doors remains just there – the haveli is a haven of calm in itself. In the central area of the haveli is a platform that was once meant for men’s get together and is today a setting for puppet and dance shows. The mansion’s 47 rooms have frescos and rug covered floors while the common areas have crystal chandeliers and hunting trophies.
Website – www.alsisarhaveli.com


Castle Mandawa (Mandawa) – Tucked away in the dusty Shekhawati region of Rajasthan, Castle Mandawa, an amber-coloured fort, was built in 1755 by Thakur Nawal Singh to protect his principality, Mandawa. Today, Castle Mandawa run by Nawal Singh’s descendents as a heritage hotel and is an ideal base from which to explore Shekhawati. The turreted towers, winding staircases, terraces and canopied balconies of the castle are a throwback to its past. The spacious rooms are still hold the medieval charm with period furniture and colourful local furnishings. Each of the 70 rooms is different, with beautiful frescos, and some even boasting of tinkling fountains!
Website – www.mandawahotels.com


Lakshman Sagar (Raipur, district Pali) – This hunting lodge was built in the late 19th century as a hunting rest place by Rajput Kunwar. It is now acquired by Sewara Hospitality & Development. As a continuation of the hospitality and traditions of the house of Raipur, present Kunwar fancied a heritage resort much like his great-great grandfather Thakur Lakshman Singh, though all manifested through timeless architecture and design. There are 12 luxury cottages and the unique experience in that isolated spot will be remembered by travellers who once go to the place. The heritage resort offers live cooking, music and fireworks, also travelling by bullock cart to near by Fatehgarh Fort and a private dine on the floating cruise on the Lakshman Sagar private lake.
Website – www.sewara.com



Khimsar Fort (Khimsar) – Rao Karamsi constructed the Khimsar Fort in 1523 but it became the family’s living quarters only in the mid-18th century when they added a new women’s wing. At was the norm at that time; this section had finely carved windows and stone grills, the architectural equivalent of a veil. Now the fort has been converted into a hotel, but the royal family, including Rao Karamsi’s 21st descendant, continues to live in a part of the fort. It’s a beautiful place that offers guests a chance to go on camel and jeep safaris to the areas nearby and spot black bucks and gazelles.
Website – www.khimsarfort.com

Monday, April 6, 2009

A Sojourn to the Royal Land - Jaipur



The ‘Pink City’ is dotted with magnificent forts and palaces, equally majestic fountains, artistically created gardens with gigantic havelis, historic museums, bustling bazaars and smiling folks in vibrant attires. Journey to Jaipur is always and enthralling experience.

Bus ride from New Delhi to Jaipur takes around 5 hours and as it approaches the historic city, the occasional old forts on one side and glitzy hotel chains on the other gave away the feel of the intermingling of history and modernity.

What to see in Jaipur

Albert Museum, the oldest museum in Rajasthan was our first stop. This beautiful building was built in 1876 to welcome King Edward VII who was then on a visit to India as Prince of Wales. Rare textiles, carpets, paintings, metal and wood crafts, pottery, toys, dolls and even Egyptian mummy were on display. It central gallery is completely devoted to Rajasthani music and dance forms.

Birla Mandir or Lakshmi Narayan Temple, which sits near Moti Doogri – the private property of the last Maharani of Jaipur, Gayatri Devi. Nearby another beautiful historic place Jal Mahal also known as Lake Palace that literally sits on the serene waters of the lake.

Old Jaipur city clearly describes why this city is so loved. Everything is pink and the streets are alive with bright reds, fuchsias, blue and greens hanging from the ceilings of the stores. The streets are lined with busy shoppers getting the famous crafted mirror works woven into cloth to make exquisitely designed skirts, bags, umbrellas etc. The signature monument of Jaipur city is undoubtedly Hawa Mahal with its 953 small windows decorated with tiny lattice work. The museum and designs within the gates of the City Palace demands a full hour. This palace is home to the largest inventory of weaponry dating back to the 18th century. The Diwan-I-Khas exhibits two huge silver vessels of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II who carried water from River Ganga on his trip to England.

Jaigarh Fort that is 15 km from Jaipur city is situated on top of the hill. This fort was made to tighten the security of Jaipur and Amber. Here travellers can watch the world’s largest cannon and underground tanks that store 60, 00,000 gallons of water. At night one must watch the cultural fiesta in Choki Dhani where musicians and dancers entertained those already seated. The mirror-studded walls, Ikat durries and antique metallic swings are all truly Rajasthani.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Holistic Medical Institutions in Rajasthan

Despite of the fact that several alternative medicine and fitness traditions had diminished over the last few centuries, there has been a revival, especially since independence, and a lot of headway has been made in establishing institutes where these vital sciences are not only taught, they are also offered as courses to visitors.
Some of the few good one are listed here.

Government Yogic Treatment Cum Research Centre (Jaipur) – It is the only government supported yoga centre in India; the institute was established in 1961. Ever since, it has found yoga-based remedies for ailments such as asthma, diabetes and other internal disorders. No medicines are used in the treatment, with yoga being the only method of finding relief from chronic problems. Naturopaths work in a fully-equipped laboratory, and treatment for its patients who reside on the premises is free, as is the board and lodging.

National Institute of Ayurveda (Jaipur)– Established as an ayurvedic college in 1946 by the former rulers of Jaipur, it has since been upgraded, and its impressive complex on Amber Road houses thirteen departments of medicine and an attached hospital.

Nature Cure Centre(Jaipur) – Colloquially called Prakritik Chikitsalaya, this nature cure institute has been a pioneer in the field for last five decades. A health farm, it uses the five elements in its treatment with fasting, sun bathing, mud baths, wet sheet packs, steam baths and water therapy to offer remedies for arthritis, acidity, asthma and other respiratory ailments, bronchitis, colitis, diabetes, heart problems, obesity, jaundice and lumber spondylitis.

Rajasthan Swasthya Yog Parishad (Jaipur)– Yoga consists of breathing and physical exercises, and the proper manner in which there are performed can lead to amazing results in people, curing them of ailments and increasing the longevity of their lives. The organisation here is a training centre in yoga, and has as many ten other centres in Jaipur alone, with more outside the city.

Vipassana Dhammathali Centre For Meditation(Jaipur) – One of the branches of the institute in Maharashtra, this beautiful centre disburses training in the ancient technique of vipassana meditation as practiced two and half thousand years ago by Gautama Buddha. The complex has a distinctive Buddhist look, and there is a central meditation hall for one hundred and fifty people as well as one hundred and sixty cells. Meditation courses at the complex last ten days for beginners, and longer ones of twenty, thirty and forty five days duration for the more experienced.

Yoga Sadhana Ashram (Jaipur) – A prominent yoga centre, started 1969, the ashram nestles in a serene environment, and besides regular classes in the morning and evening, also has courses lasting three months to a year. Besides yoga, it also undertakes he yogic treatment of cardiac problems, psychic disorders, blood pressure complaints and spondylitis.

Saturday, March 28, 2009

Rajasthan - Film Maker’s and Photographer’s Paradise


Bollywood Fantasies

Need incredible backgrounds, the more fantastic the better? Simply look around: there is Sisodia Rani ka Bagh and Vidyadharji ka Bagh in Jaipur; Saheliyon ki Bari in Udaipur; the resorts of Balsaman, Sardarsamand in Jodhpur and heritage resort in Lakshman Sagar. There are elephants and camels and peacocks. There are streets full of flamboyantly dressed people. And villages the homes are brightly painted. Anywhere you look in Rajasthan, anywhere you focus through the beta camera, provides the vivid, imaginative background you were looking for.

Arid Landscape

For those looking for the perfect sands as a background for their scenes there is Jaisalmer, with its Sandunes, but even more interesting are the sand dunes between Bikaner and Nokha, around Deshnoka, where for long stretches, there is no human intrusion to be seen, no leaf of grass to disturb the flow of the desert. When looking for scrub land deserts, the Shekhawati landscape is idea, especially since its small towns that emerge from the horizon are as timeless in their look now as they were centuries ago.

But Rajasthan is not simply great for landscapes shots of sand dunes, for there are huge lakes too, and thick forests and the Aravalli and Vindyachal Hill, all of which are great locations.

Family Dramas And Socials

Not all films or ads require only historic backgrounds, or opulent palaces. When looking for a traditionally setting for family dramas, for example, the many havelis are ideal, whether in Shekhwati or even in Bikaner, since these are built with open courtyards, and are likely to be ready for a shoot without having to make them over.

Even when a more European ambience is required, such as those of families that tended to be educated according to Western ways, places such as Mount Abu with their period bungalows and furniture more than fit the bill. The hill station is charming to for its lake views, sunset points, walks and trails, and the Jain temples close by.

People’s Choice

Often, cinema needs the background of ordinary people, and in Rajasthan you couldn’t ask for more: the people are unspoilt, and as a background, they can bring their brand of vibrancy on the screen without even being aware that they are on camera. Since dancers and singers are also needed for the backspace, there are the Kalbeliya snake dancers, the Bikaner fire dancers and Jaisalmer’s Langa and Manganiyar singers who can cast a spell on any audience within moments.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Pushkar Fair – Exotic Blend of Trade and Festival



There is a wrong notion about Pushkar Fair in common minds that the fair happens only during October or November and it is principaly a cattle festival. As the matter of fact, Pushkar Fair can be held during anytime between September to November. The date is on Kartik Purnima, and it is not a festival but a cattle trade fair where villagers from distant places of Rajasthan, do rigorous hard work, come to the fair ground and involve in trading.

Pushkar Fair in the course of time become very popular among tourists as it is probably the biggest cattle fair in the whole world. Cows, camels, sheep, goats and their traders flood the city. And if price is any indication – in 1940, the costlier camel went for Rs.77, in 2002, the price rose to nearly 12000. The fair become a week long fiesta with competitions and state-sponsored entertainment program thrown in. In the course of time, a simple business trade has turned into a tourist event. Storytellers, hypnotists, snake charmers, magicians and monkey trainers will all vie for the attention.

The serious business comes from the significant chunk of pilgrims who come to this place to pay their respect to Brahma temple and have a dip in the Pushkar Lake. In Pushkar Fair, men generally buy and sell their livestock (camels, cows, sheep and goats) and the women engage mainly in the stalls where they sell traditional Rajasthani bracelets, clothes, textiles and fabrics. One of the major attractions is the camel race that starts off the festival coupled with music, songs and exhibitions to follow.

Over the years Pushkar Fair witnesses huge number of tourists. Initially Pushkar Fair was started as a solely cattle trade for few people, however, over the years it turns out to be a biggest fair of Rajasthan. There are horse and camel races and betting is heavy. In the Ladhu Umt race teams of up to 10 men cling to camels, and one another, in a hilarious and often chaotic spectacle. The Tug-of-War between Rajasthani and foreigners is usually won by the local favourites. There are also sideshows with jugglers, acrobats, magicians and folk dancers. At nightfall there is music and dancing outside the tents, around friendly fires – an unforgettable experience despite its increasingly touristy nature.